(By Ibalarishisha Syiem and Gavrila Sohliya)
Shillong || Once seen as a declining tradition, handloom weaving in Meghalaya is finding new relevance as designers, educators, and artisans work together to create livelihoods rooted in heritage.
At a recent panel discussion titled Panel Discussion for Local Livelihoods and Global Opportunities – Apparel & Textile, organised by Meghalaya State Skill Development Society, Government of Meghalaya, Ms. Meaidibahun Blah from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), renowned designer Daniel Syiem of Daniel Syiem Fashion House, and Sr Rhodalin Kamar from the Auxillium Skill Training Centre shared their perspectives on how the region’s textiles are evolving.
Recognition and Growth in Eri Silk
The conversation focused on the growing recognition of eri silk, which has received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag and has been praised by national leaders, including the Prime Minister. Kong Blah noted that in the past decade, there has been growth in eri silk weaving even beyond the traditional pockets of Bhoi. Villages such as Umden and Diwon have seen a rise in artisans taking up weaving full time, thanks in part to government support.
“Twenty years ago, most parents didn’t see this as a livelihood. They encouraged their children to learn the craft but still apply for government jobs. That is changing,” she said. “People are realising the potential to actually earn through these skills.”
Challenges in Production and Scaling
Yet, there are challenges. Daniel Syiem, who has spent over 15 years working with eri silk, shared that while demand is growing internationally, production remains small and deeply tied to local methods. “Eri silk is made in small quantities by hand. We can’t meet big orders without losing the value of what makes it special,” he said. The ryndia, once kept in cupboards and worn only on special occasions, is now known worldwide for its unique properties, eco-friendly, naturally dyed, and completely biodegradable.
Pride and Global Recognition
For many years, weaving was treated as a dying art form. An officer from the sericulture department first approached Daniel to help revive it. Since then, he has taken the ryndia abroad to showcase it on global platforms, which he believes has instilled pride in local communities. “When I began, there were no designers around. Now, you see boutiques everywhere,” he said. He added that taking the ryndia abroad and showcasing it on international platforms has helped people in the region see its worth in a new light, while healthy competition is pushing everyone to be more creative.
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Skill Building and Training
Sr Kamar explained that training centres have played a major role in this revival. Through partnerships with the Meghalaya State Skill Development Society (MSSDS), hundreds of young people, especially women, have been trained in tailoring, weaving, and basic fashion design. “The challenge is that even after training, some don’t know where to sell their products,” she said. “We encourage them to look beyond local markets.”
Kong Blah stressed that while demand can help sustain the craft, it cannot come at the cost of authenticity. “Anything made by hand can’t be forced to look the same. Once you push for mass production, you lose the story behind it,” she said. NIFT’s approach combines skill-building and cultural preservation, with students regularly visiting craft clusters, conducting field research, and developing products with artisans.
Daniel added that the process has encouraged more women to become full-time entrepreneurs. “When I started, people questioned how you could sustain yourself with just one fabric. Now, many are proving that you can,” he said. His fashion house also offers internships to design graduates and plans to expand into long-term training courses to mentor the next generation.
The Road Ahead
Looking ahead, he believes the industry’s growth will depend on overcoming jealousy and competition among practitioners. “These young minds must get to choose and follow their passion,” he said.
As more children learn weaving from an early age and see it not just as tradition but as a real career, the future looks promising. But much still depends on expanding training opportunities and helping artisans market their products beyond Meghalaya.
There is a growing sense that blending modern design skills with old techniques is the only way forward. To sustain the momentum, more investment in training is essential, so young people can build livelihoods while keeping the indigenous spirit of the art alive.
